Agadir is nestled along the west coast of Morocco and is the country’s most popular attraction. But there is more to the area than first impressions.
Located to the west of the Atlas Mountains, the Agadir resort is Morocco’s most popular tourist destination. Deceptively modern, this Western coast of Morocco boasts wide sandy beaches overlooking the Atlantic to the west, just a short flight from the Canary Islands.
The Old Aghadir and the Gunboat Panther
In Berbic, Agadir means “high town” and is sometimes spelled “Aghadir.” It is the Berbic Amazigh capital. This once small fishing town was originally built by the Portuguese in 1505 before becoming an independent port. For years, it was the exporter of sugar and cotton from the Sous Valley before becoming the largest sardine exporter in the world.
At present most of Morocco’s tourist’s revenue is attributed to the coastal resort of Agadir. The area appears plush and modern, the beaches lined with smart hotels, holiday accommodation, eateries and a municipal gallery, all earthquake-proof and tastefully designed in geometric shapes. Indeed, Agadir is primarily geared towards beach activity such as wind surfing, scuba diving, sun bathing and even camel rides on the sand.
But Agadir was once the centre of a European crisis. In 1911 it was briefly occupied by the French troops after France had taken control of Fez to “maintain order.” in the face of increasing unrest. Germany viewed this action to be a violation of a former agreement made in Algeciras preventing France gaining control of Morocco. Tensions rose when Germany sent a gunship, “the Panther,” to the coast of Agadir. This crisis was resolved soon after by the signing of a convention between Germany and France acknowledging France’s political interests in Morocco in return for France ceding a small area in the French Congo.
Agadir Earthquake
But, this crisis is dwarfed when compared to a huge natural disaster that befell Agadir. Shortly before midnight on February 29 1960, a devastating earthquake measuring 6.7 on the Richter scale hit the area, killing thousands of people in just a few seconds. The ensuing tsunamis and the aftermath of the spread of cholera brought the figure up to 12,000. In total, 50,000 were left homeless. A week later, King Mohammed V visited the area and pledged that the city would be rebuilt by 1961. As a result, the town took stock and started again. It was rebuilt from scratch a mile (1.6km) south of the old town. On viewing the renewed town, King Mohammed declared, “New Agadir is a testament to the faith and determination of its inhabitants and the Moroccan people.” (Reference given below)
The visitor might at first be first impressed by the modern and clean feel to the town that appears more like a scene from the French Riviera rather than an African resort, but the novelty might quickly fade as something appears amiss amongst the bland and modern buildings that have replaced the five-hundred year old town. The only remnant of the old Agadir left is the Kasbah, built in the 1500s, just north of the town. A sombre garden and small mosque at Ancienne Talborjt serves as a reminder of the dead. From there, one can take in a big view of the bay, including the new royal palace nearby.
Agadir Guide and the Ameln Valley
The contrast between old and new might become more apparent when visiting the nearby villages around Agadir. On the route to Tafraout, for instance, one will encounter the small Berber villages of Ait-Baha and El-Kelaa-M’Gouna within the Ameln Valley. Here the landscape becomes increasingly parched within the domain of the Sahara’s climate. A venture further will reward the visitor with the impressive Kasbah of Ait Benhaddou, used in six films, and the breathtaking Todres and Dades Gorges in the Red Valley. The Atlas Mountains provide an impressive backdrop to the Crenulated citadels of red stone, craggy fortresses, pastel houses, misty oases and almond orchards that offer a more traditional feel of Morocco and give the visitor an idea of how Agadir might have once looked.
